Kungsleden – day 4

The big day is here. As we knew we had to first walk 10 km to the start, we had set the alarm at 3. However, I woke up at 2:30 for my standard midnight pee and it was raining. So when the alarm went off at 3 I suggested snoozing for an extra 30 minutes. Still sleepy Donald wasn’t difficult to convince.

We tried to be as quiet and quick as possible and less than a hour later we were on our way. Beautiful morning? With the first sunrays peaking over the mountains. The trail was easier than the end of the last day. So within 3 hours, we were at the location of the trail to Kebnekaise. Although we walked passed it the first time. We had a snack break knowing that we would need all the calories we could get.

The first bit of the new path was fine but significantly smaller and less walked compared to the Kungsleden trail. However, as soon as we reached the valley (which was a river valley rather than a glacier valley) the trail changed to be over many rockfalls (I’ll check The Earth Science book if this is the correct term). If I thought the Kungsleden trail was slow, this was even worse! So much focus on not misstepping and rolling my ankles or worse. After an hour or two we reached another valley with beautiful camping spots along a lake. Really quiet with nearly no hikers coming up this way. The only daunting thing was that the camp soot had stone walls to protect the tents from strong winds.

The map suggested that we wouldn’t have many water sources, so we filled up and tried to look for the trail. Couldn’t really find one so we just scrabbled over the rocks based on my offline map and GPS location. Eventually, we did find stone markers again which did ease my mind. The trail continued to be jumping from boulder to boulder and my feet were definitely getting tired from constantly weird pressure points and we weren’t even halfway. I knew it would be tough but it was even tougher than expected.

At lunch, we finally saw the saddle from which Kebnekaise can be reached. However, to get there, there was a really steep and sketchy part. Definitely needed some mental strength to not go into panic mode because it felt that if one large boulder would be dislodged, everything will come down. Was to sure what that would mean for me. But thinking like that would not be helpful and it’s the trail. So people did find it safe enough to lead the trail over it.

We did make it and all the boulders stayed in place. When I say made it, I mean reaching the saddle. Had lunch there and it was ‘only’ 1.5km to the top. As we would come back to this spot we left stuff behind. Thinking it would be easy. However, within 1.5 km, you need to climb 500m. Not fully aware of that we started the climb. Assuming that we would reach it fast. Don was quicker so he went ahead. But it was a never-ending climb. Like so steep and so long. Every time I thought I would be at the end, a new steep section would appear. I think I went so slow that strava didn’t track my progress but assumed I was standing still.

Eventually an hour later I saw Donald. But still not there. And yes looking back over your shoulder the views were gorgeous, but going uphill for so long after already a tiring morning and the knowledge of what we needed to descend and the ‘small’ hill that you needed to hup over, made me want to stop. But what a waste of energy, coming all this way to not finish what I started. Thus onwards I pushed. Completely focussing on short milestones to keep me motivated. An hour later than expected we did reach the summit!! Rain clouds nearby made us hurry. Short hurrah and photos and a quick break, because descending while it was raining was my worst fear.

The downhill was faster not perse easier. Getting more and more tired. At the level of the ‘small hill’ Don said ‘Oh all that we go down no, we need to climb and go down again’. Wasn’t the visualization I needed. But as tired as I was, I know I can do it. Hiking many hikes before I know how much I can do. That realization is such a huge help.

Getting back at the saddle we picked up the stuff we left behind and continued. Putting our rain jackets on because we could feel raindrops. Luckily it didn’t rain too much. Pfffh uphill was s bad as it looked. The second downhill even worse. At some point, I did start to wonder if it was getting too much. But those thoughts don’t help. They just consume energy. I was also getting frustrated with Donald for no reason. I told him to hike his own pace because he was waiting for me made me feel rushed. But then I would be annoyed that he continued so far that I couldn’t see him. Purely my mind is exhausted and going negative. So I told myself time after time, I said it was okay so don’t blame him. Focus on yourself, you can do it, negative thoughts won’t help, step by step you’ll make it. You always have.

And then magic!! Stairs appeared. So easy, so nice. What a treat. The rain also stopped for half an hour already.

Unfortunately not the whole way down was stairs and soon it was as thought as it had been. The thing making it worse was there was a 30m drop to a fast-flowing river. So tripping would come with severe consequences. I did nearly fall 2 times. So I stopped for an extra break. There was no rush, no daylight fading and thus no reason to put myself at risk. After 15 min break, I did better but it was so so so difficult.

Eventually, we made it. As the rain came near, we rushed on a shortcut. I had nothing left so when we found a spot decent enough and I felt raindrops, I had no patience left. So in a not-so-fine moment, I kind of stated/commanded that we camped right here. Donald also very tired, luckily accepted this unkind behavior and didn’t make a big deal out of it. The tent was pitched and indeed the rain came. While it was raining I jumped into the river for a quick wash. Wet is wet. Than made dinner. If I waited for 30min it would have been dry. But at 7:30 I was knocked out and fell directly into sleep.