Sleeping in a hut when it is raining is the best feeling. Nonetheless, there are downsides to sleeping in a hut. For example, you wake up as soon as the first hiker gets up. This hit was no exception. So I just got up as well.
I left with the French couple (yes the one from the rowing boat) a few minutes ahead of me. They arrived yesterday at the hut as well, but they camped.
The trail goes over the next ‘ridge’ (it’s the top of the mountain, but it’s so wide that you cannot really call it a ridge). From the hut, I could already see that most of it was in the clouds. It was clearing up but at a very slow pace. So I anticipated more views being blocked by clouds. When hiking up I could see the French couple and more reindeer. So far I’ve seen them nearly every day. I still get excited and make a whole photo shoot, live photos, and videos.
I reached the ‘ridge’ and it was still in the clouds. No views but the trail did go through a small tarn. As my feet/shoes were already soaked, like every day, I just went straight through. But I did find it hilarious that the trail casually goes through a tarn, like no biggie. Halfway on the ridge, there is an emergency shelter which would be a perfect spot for a break. I arrived shortly after the French couple. We chatted and ended our break at the same time so we continued together.
It was nice to have some company again after Donald left. But there was a reason they passed me on the way to the rowing boats, their pace was good plus they never stopped for photos or anything. So every time I took a photo, I made them wait. Not the best feeling. And so after an hour, we split up.
Reaching the last peak along the ridge, the weather cleared up enough that there was a view. So I had a second break. It was around lunch time but it was also only 5km left. So I figured I would go to Ammarnäs and buy something there.
I got a bit lost on my way down, so I ended up walking a ski slope down. But it got me where I needed to go. When I was nearly at the Fjällstuga, I met a woman on the way. With two sentences she invited me to stay in the cabin she booked. Which was really kind because with bad weather the huts in town are typically full.
This Fjällstuga was indeed full, so I went to the supermarket hoping she would be back once I got back and I could settle in. She wasn’t, so I went back to the store to resupply (first trip was for lunch). Whilst chatting with the owner, the electricity died. She didn’t even blink. Apparently, this happens often with high winds. Luckily I already paid, because with no power, you couldn’t buy groceries.
Back sitting in front of the hut, the kind woman wasn’t back. So I chatted with a guy I met in the hut yesterday. He also had places left in his cabin. At this point, I didn’t care in which cabin I had a bed. I wanted to settle in and so his offer was hood. Moments after settling in, it came pouring down!!! Very glad me and my backpack weren’t outside anymore.
I did meet up with the woman and we all graved burgers from this highly recommended place. but with no power, no food. So to kill time, I went for a shower in the dark. However, at that point, the lights turned back on!! Hallelujah!
We rushed down and I forgot my phone, so no food photo. But it was delicious, still drooling. In the restaurant, there were more hikers so we joined to form one big group exchanging stories. The instant connection within a hikers community is amazing and one of the main reasons I want to hike ‘popular’ routes. People make the trail and I laughed and stayed up wayyy past my bedtime (like 22:30😱).
So yeah sad that the views weren’t there, but there is no way I can say this was a bad day.
Zilla-in-the-wild 