It’s not a fascinating day, but it was a nice day with a substantial amount of hiking. In the morning I left the hit saying goodbye to my only companion.

I hiked down to the first hut through a beautiful forest.

Then I walked along the river for a long time, with places where the trail was difficult and narrow due to landslides. I thought I would get lunch and a swim at the top, but it took too long. So I stopped earlier and did just that. Eventually getting annoyed with sandflies although it can be A LOT worse.

I noticed that I wouldn’t make Hunter’s hut and it was full anyway. So I took 5 liters of water with me and decided I would dry camp on the top (dry camp = no access to water at your camping location). With a climb in the heat of the afternoon I wanted to have enough.

It was slow, partly because of the weight of the water and partly because I was tired.

I found a perfect spot with excellent views and not too windy. I did set up my tent and now I ly in it, I wonder why. Because I love sleeping directly under the stars, I don’t expect rain and being high up, no condensation or biting insects. But here I am, lying in my tent and going to sleep.

Today is Mt Rintoul day. Absolutely stunning, but you do have to work for those views.

Anna and I woke up after another night disturbed by mice. But luckily they didn’t get to our food. Leaving the hut just before 7 am, we could climb to Little Rintoul while it was still cool. The only unfortunate thing is that Old Man Hut is located 200m below the track. The instant climb on cold muscles isn’t easy but what are you going to do about it?

We finally reached the track and soon after we reached the tree line. With cool air and a bit of a breeze, the uphill was very manageable. On the top, there is a bit of a sketchy part, but in my memory, it was so much worse than it actually was.

Unfortunately, the downhill from Little Rintoul was as horrible as I remembered. Extremely slow going and a fear of slipping at every step. But you just got to do it and after a long time, we finally managed the whole descent. Only to climb back up to Mt Rintoul.

I prefer uphill at all times and soon I got into a rhythm and I reached the top in no time. I enjoyed the view as it was well-earned! There is also reception so I was able to check the weather forecast. The next few days will be sunny and I’m certain I’ll finish the Richmond ranges on the 12th. Seeing that I only recently started hiking again, a rest day in St Arnaud is probably wise. So I made a booking at the Alpine Backpackers. Anna reached the top as well and after a photo shoot and another soaking in the views we continued.

The downhill from Rintoul is easier compared to Little Rintoul, but dropping down 500m will always take its toll on my legs.

At Rintoul hut, I ate lunch and hugged Anna goodbye. She would stay there, but I wanted to continue to Tarn Hut. From previous experience, I knew that the terrain is gentler and it would take about 3 hours.

I absolutely loved the hike. Maybe also because I decided it was time for my ultimate favorite audio. The Harry Potter audiobooks.

When I reached Tarn Hit there was only one other hiker. We chatted for a while until I just had to take a swim. We ate dinner together and then she retreated to her tent and I to my private hut.

What a day

During the night Anna had to pack away her food more carefully because the mice were (apparently) extremely active and physically jumping onto stuff to get to our food. My 2 food backs (obviously I meant ‘bags’ 😅 I do write this at the end of every and it’s just too funny to correct it) were hanging, but I did realise that there were some bars left in my hip pocket. So I grabbed them and put them right next to my head. As I wasn’t wearing earplugs I (thought) I would hear them coming. But no, too tired and too fast a sleep, so they did nibble on my Snickers bar. Why do they always go for chocolate?! That bummed me more out than the fact a mouse was right next to my head.

The American Thomas left about half an hour before Anna and I. I waved the Nobo Kiwi family goodbye. They were so inspiring and I’m slightly jealous. Although technically I’m also walking with my whole household, which consists of one person.

The way to Slaty Hut was so gorgeous. We both enjoyed it immensely and made the doc-predicted time. On the whole, I’m a little bit faster compared to Anna, but she beats me on the downhill. But I think I am also used to longer days of hiking. But we chatted about our lives and some cringy boyfriend incidents (she beats me at that aspect as my cringy moments are often self-inflicted). I appreciated the company and time flew by.

At Slaty Hut, we saw Thomas again. Pretty confused we saw him because I assumed he was further ahead of us. Unfortunately, he lost his way and climbed straight up the hill where the official trail curves around it. If it wasn’t bad enough he also broke a pole. The second day in a row I saw fresh blood on his arms.

After a snack break, we continued, and walking on the ridge was spectacular. Beautiful views in both valleys and the daunting sight of Litte Rintoul and Mount Rintoul.

The second part became suddenly more technical with steep but short ascents and descents. It took a little longer to reach the junction to Old Man Hut, but we made it. From there it’s a 200m descent which we have to climb before we can climb the Rintouls (jeej), but after 3:45 pm we arrived at the hut and enjoyed our downtime with washing, card games, food, and two episodes of the Big Bang theory.

After another big dinner (almost finished my first 0,5kg of pasta) we hung everything there was to hang. Hopefully, they leave my face alone. Night night

Ps I only remembered that yesterday I ate a Beschuitje with cheese!

The first person in the hit got up at 5:30. Bit too early for my taste. So I stayed in bed till 6. I left before Thomas and Logan (two Americans I’ve been bumping into the last few days). It was again misty, wet, and slippery, but after an hour I got a decent pace and enjoyed myself. Until the umptieth time I had to push myself through an overgrown trail and got soaked by the waterdrops on the plant. Not something I remember from last time. But the overgrowing plant looked young. So I guess it wasn’t there (or so bad) last time.

After almost three hours I reached a more barren landscape. Perfect place for a snack break. Just when I finished, Logan and Thomas caught up. So we walked together to Browning hut. Another 2h so the company was nice. They took a break there, but I continued because the next hut was only an hour away.

The trail was so much nicer this bit. So of course I rolled my ankle. I waited a few minutes because it felt shaky, but once I started walking again, I didn’t feel it at all. I also got myself in a gnarly situation scrambling down a landslide. Should have turned around and taken the high water route, but by the time I realised this, turning around felt more dangerous. I took it really slow and luckily managed to get safely to the riverbed.

I did decide that this adventure granted me a swim. Especially because my but was covered in dirt from sliding gently down on my bum. Plus no rush.

After a clean, I continued to my lunch spot. Eat some delicious mashed potatoes with as many add-ins as I could find. Everything to make my pack as light as possible for the 1000m climb.

Sweat was dripping after 150m. Not great, but halfway I met Anna and fellow Dutchie and we climbed together until just before the hut. Determined not to look on my map and be disappointed, i had no idea it was so close.

At the hut, I saw Thomas. Logan had continued, but Thomas had lost his balance with rock jumping at a river crossing and was drying his stuff.

Eventually, we are with 7 at the hut as a family of 4 showed up doing it Nobo. They were lovely and we ate together at the big table like a family dinner.

Now in bed and ready to go to sleep

I was so right not to trust my tent. During the night it didn’t seem to leak, but in the morning I could see water droplets covering my mosquito net. Although it drizzled on and off it shouldn’t leak through my tent. So I definitely need to sleep in huts. I also didn’t sleep well. An ongoing theme recently. So I slept till 7:15.

As the trail was wet and slippery, I took it really slow. Not, however, according to strava, I walked at a pace of 5,6km/h and did 6km. As the total distance to the me hit was 5.5km, I knew it was wrong. Unfortunately.

The trail is gorgeous, but I wasn’t enjoying it very much. Annoyed by my tent, the only and off drizzle and the slippery-ness.

During lunch I laid my tent outside to dry and hid in the Midi Creek hut against the sandflies, I didn’t realise it started to rain. So my tent was actually wetter.

After this hut, it’s a 600m climb. I remember from last time that it wasn’t too bad. But this time I struggled, but ultimately made it.

In the hut were already 4 others (3 none-TA hikers ) and 4 others came in after me (all TA hikers). It was great and made for a happy ending of the day. Now see if I can sleep while my neighbor is snoring away. He did hike in vodka, so I can’t be too mad about it.

Woke up on time and discovered that my tent was covered in bird shit.

So instead of a quick start, I had to clean it first.

My bag is and felt heavy and I kept focusing on short key points of the route today.

After 15 km I had a longer beard than usual because I won’t have reception in the next 7 days. I phoned my eldest sister for an update. After some adorable stories about my nephew, it was time to continue

Before reaching the 8 km farm track, I had a short conversation with three local farmers trying to figure out where their drainage pipe went. Shortly after I saw a woman cutting down the weeds and had a quick that. Looking at her I recognised her. She is the main character of One of my favorite TA 2019 stories. She saw me getting ready to sleep next to the road (because too late to finish the farm track) and she offered me a bed. But I refused because it meant walking the road I just finished walking. Then she offered to drop me off at this point, but I refused because I get up so early I would never asked that of her. But she promised me that she wakes up early to work at the farm and so I ended up staying with her and had a great night’s sleep!

I never thought I would meet Sharon again. But so glad I did!

After that, it was time for the farm track and the endless amount of stiles to climb over with a 20kg backpack.

At Pelerius Bridge the cafe was closed, but a little caravan sold coffee. Sitting dry and using my pan as a cup, I watched as the rain poured down. I chatted with a lovely family. When I said I had nieces and nephews slightly younger at 4, 3, and 1. The boy asked why I used the word slightly. ‘How old do you think I am?’ I said ‘ like 8?’. ‘No’ he replied, ‘I’m 12’. Oopsie

After almost two hours I decided to continue and try to cover the 25km to the hut. I don’t trust my tent in the rain any longer.

It continued to Drizzle on the road walk, but nothing too bad. I covered it pretty fast, but when a car offered me a ride till her house, I gladly accepted. It turned out to be like a 3 km hitch. But still, that’s about 40min of walking.

Once I hit the trail it was around 5 pm. The signs said it would take 4 hours to reach the hut. By that time I was also concerned the hut might be full. So when I reached Emerald Pools after an hour I decided to pitch my tent there and hope for the best.

After a swim and trying to dry off while sandflies swarmed around me, I pitched my tent, walked while eating, and eventually snugged into my sleeping bag.

Not a great night with possums. So another sleep in. Too kind to myself. But today is a short, flat day of ~25km to Havelock. The last resupply before the serious business of the Richmond Rangers.

I called Alex, a hiking buddy of the 2019 season and my mom, so the time flew by. After 15km a snack break and on to the last 10km

Kudos to the local authorities because all the way there was a separate footpath next to the road. And even for a bit, the trail is a similar style to QCT wide and beautiful. The sun was out and nothing could dampen my spirit.

In Havelock, I had acider and way too salty fries. Then, the dreadful resupply for 8/9 days. I think it will take 7 nights and 8 days. But you need to be prepared for bad weather and the inevitable delay that will bring. The forecast is looking good, but you never know for certain in the mountains.

Tonight I sleep at a holiday park with petty people. I understand that it’s annoying if we walk past your caravan. But you can just ask rather than put a rope up.

I went to dinner with two TA hikers. A nice salmon with spinach. Need the healthy stuff before just calorie eating (rather than healthy eating).

I updated my blog and thus now time for bed.

After some snoozing, I got up kwart to 7 and was hiking 20 past 7. With only half a litre left, I hasted myself to the campsite. I saw a ta hikester and we chatted for a while. Unfortunately, I won’t meet her again. As her hiking buddy is sick, they are doing short days.

The hike itself was beautiful and so pretty. Around lunchtime, I could go to a bar 700m from the trail. Although it sounded like fun. I didn’t go. Already dreading the climb. I didn’t want to extend the climb, plus eating the food I was carrying would make it lighter. So I stayed on trail.

The campsite is lovely. I chose the camp option along the water edge rather than the forest. After a delicious dinner, I went to bed. Too tired to write anything more.

I didn’t sleep great which was probably the result of finishing my book (also my cutting board) about a kidnapping case. Plus it was a little bit colder than I expected but too lazy to zip up my sleeping bag.

Thus in the morning I slept till 7:30 and started hiking at 8. Still not enjoying any oatmeal recipe I tried. I decided to go back to my walk and eat oatmeal bars approach. Which worked fine.

The trail is as beautiful as I remembered. The only thing I didn’t remember was the correct route and with nearly no junctions, I still managed to take the wrong turn. Luckily I realised before walking down all the elevation. But I wasn’t as pleased with myself.

I do feel my hiking legs aren’t back yet. Which is no surprise. I mean I covered a neat 33km and 1100m of elevation. But it wasn’t with ease. I even had to take a nap at 3.

Deciding I would go to the campsite of many coves, I continued after hitting Camp Bay after 20km. However, the first line of the most recent comment for the campsite of many bays was ‘Possum party is more like a possum festival’

Not too excited to lay awake by screaming possums who may chew through my tent. So I decided to fill up 3 liters before leaving Camp Bay so I could camp if I find a nice spot.

The additional 3 kg of water made the climb harder (duh). And so I was determined to find a camp spot. Otherwise, it would be all for nothing.

I visited the Eatwell view point. Very pretty, but too windy. Luckily I did find a camp spot. So far possum-free, but with a very inquisitive Weka (flightless bird). I’ll try to snatch a. Photo. But in my tent and time to sleep so will see.

SI= South Islans

New years day

Altogether the hangover wasn’t too bad, mainly just tired. I was in Nelson with Tika and her boyfriend to celebrate New Year’s Eve

I got up earlier than I wanted because I still needed to pack my food box to be sent to St Arnaud. It fitted exactly in a wine box. Which means it’s way too much for 6 days. But who cares? Oh wait I do because need to carry it. But that’s a problem for after the Queens Charlotte Track (QCT) and the Richmond Ranges.

After breakfast, Tika drove me to Picton where I would catch the water taxi to the start of QCT. I wouldn’t walk far as I only arrived in the mid-afternoon and was tired.

The 6 km was so lovely and feeling strong I overtook many other hikers who got off the water taxi before me. This is also useful because it’s partly booked online and partly first come first serve. Plus dibs on the best spots.

On top of the hill, I chatted with a Dutch couple that kayaked to the start. What an epic idea. Unfortunately last night on New Year’s it was stormy and their tent pole broke. Guess I’m not the only one with a shittie tent.

I made it to camp in great time. Found a gorgeous spot overlooking the sound. As I was lazy I snacked first before deciding I did need to eat dinner, by then I was already full, but I had to stuff it on top. Also, the Weka (flightless cheeky New Zealand bird) stole a bag of fried onions. So I had to chase him into the bush to get it back.

For the first time, I also had actually time to read a lot of my book. And by the time it was bedtime, I was so drawn in, that I had to finish it. So around midnight, I could finally go to sleep.