Oh boy what day. I think ‘ordeal’ is fitting. But it starts of as a regular day.

Today is one of the deepest tidal crossings. Low tide at 11 am and with only 3.5 km to the crossing, this means a late start. I was glad to be sleeping inside because it was raining in the morning. Just when we left at 9 am, the rain cleared. Immediately after leaving the campsite, Te Araroa follows a trail. Bit muddy but I walked on my sandals to keep my shoes dry till after the crossing. I had a small slide in the mud, so I walked carefully on the rocks approaching the estuary crossing. I walked with Tim. Ron was right behind us and Carry was waiting another hour to cross exactly at low tide.

And than

Disaster struck

I slipped on the rocks

Tim directly asked if I was alright. I saw a bit of blood on my left hand and right knee. No extreme pain. So I said I was fine. Until I saw my right hand. I saw a deep cut on the palm of my hand. So deep that I immediately felt dizzy and went into panic mode: ‘Ooh nononono’. Tim came quickly and suddenly Ron was there too. He stood behind my back so I would fall because I was close to fainting. They put down a foam pad so I could lay down and I felt immediately better.

Both men were a bit unsure what to do. So I started issuing instructions. They got my first aid kit out and I grabbed with left the items needed.

So step 1: betadine to clean the wound (although it was bleeding so it probably didn’t do much)

Step 2: put a dressing over it, because my plasters weren’t big enough

Step 3: put tape over the dressing and use the tape to close the skin as much as possible. The tape is located at a different spot and so Ron grabbed his. But although ducktape can be used as a last resort. I preferred to use medical tape which removes easily from the skin.

Step 4: put on a pressure bandage.

When this was all done, it was time to take a photo (for the blog). I thought I would continue and take the first road out. But the way back with 3km was shorter. Both offered to go with me to the hospital, but I know both are keen hikers and I can go by myself.

On the way back, I saw Carry. She offered to go with me and confessed she really didn’t feel like hiking today. I gratefully accepted her offer.

Back at the beginning of the track was the campsite and the kind lady searched for someone to drive us. Meanwhile, I kept my hand high as I had no idea if it was still bleeding.

Once arrived at the medical center, Carry had to write down all my information. I was seen very fast and luckily they confirmed it needed to be stitched. I mean it would have been embarrassing if I nearly fainted at the sight and the doctor would laugh, put a bandage on, and sent me on my way.

As I really cannot look at it. They covered it up every time someone looked at it. It became clear that all my wounds (also on my knee and left hand) contained oyster shells at thus needed to be cleaned.

Eventually from my left hand, she dug a shell of 0,5cm out of my hand. She flushed my deep cut, but it wasn’t enough. The first X-ray showed still fragments in the cuts (apparently there was a second deep cut near my fingers).

As the flushing was unsuccessful, they needed to brush it. So they put in local anesthesia which hurt so much!! Like needles going straight through my nerves. In addition, they gave me laughing gas. It didn’t take away the pain, but it gave me something else to focus on.

The nurse started to clean the cut with a brush. I focused on the trees I could see from the window and tried to ignore her exclamations if another large shell fragment came out. I also needed laughing gas, because parts were still painful. After she was finished, I was sent to the X-ray. As shell fragments would light up on an X-ray they could check if the cut was clean.

Unfortunately not. So more brushing. This time by the doctor herself and it started to hurt. So I clinched to the laughing gas. Now the feeling for me was like falling asleep. You can still hear and feel, but your mind registers it very slowly. And so when I realised the doctor was talking to me, I needed a minute to get rid of the fog and to open my eyes.

The conclusion was that she couldn’t do more. One last rinse and if the X-ray would still show fragments, I needed to go to the hospital to get it surgically cleaned. Or as she called it, I needed to go to the theatre. Really confused, but apparently the surgery room can be referred to as the theatre.

The X-ray didn’t show fragments amd so the doctor was happy to stitch me up. But first, more local anesthesia. Damn!!

Smd even worse, I could still feel the needle puncturing my skin. So it wasn’t even completely numb. I breathed in so much gas, that my fingers started to cramp. Not the best when they stitch your hand. Near the end, she kind of questioned if the anesthesia was working, but as she said ‘almost done’, it didn’t feel like there was much point in saying that indeed it wasn’t completely numb.

I should have said it, because she was unhappy with two stitches, so she redid them. Lovely.

Before they covered it up, I need to wash the blood and mud from my hands. The nurse was incredibly kind and helped me. Still unable to look at my hand.

Finally around 4:30 pm (after almost 6 hours) I was ready to leave. Getting my prescriptions in the pharmacy (another week of antibiotics and painkillers) and taking the bus to Auckland.

When the local anesthesia wore off, the pain was intense. I don’t think brushing a 3cm deep cut is the best thing in terms of pain. However, I was and am very grateful that no nerves and no tendons were sliced through.

The doctor recommended a check-up on Sunday as oysters are notorious for the bacteria and thus a high infection risk. By that time, I was in Wellington to stay with the most kind people! (Kath, Ellie, and Keith, thank you so much ♥️). Kath accompanied me, but everything looked fine.

On Wednesday however, I received a text from the medical center, saying I needed to go straight to an emergency room as there was still a shell fragment in the wound. The medical center didn’t see it on the X-ray and sent me home.

A bit worried, because if it was an obvious fragment, I would never been stitched. Indeed on Thursday, the doctor called and recommended me to get an ultrasound.

So I did and indeed a 2mm big shell fragment was still in the cut. I was really concerned. Afraid of the infection risk, but also terrified of the thought of cutting open the stitches and re-stitch it afterwards.

I went to the hospital and they decided to leave the fragment in, extend my antibiotics and delay the removal of the stitches (was supposed to be the next day).

The pain became less over the weekend and the removal of the stitches on Tuesday wasn’t too bad. Still unable to fully use my hand, I decided to go back to the trail but to only walk the boring flat bits. Or so I thought.

A personal thing in the Netherlands made me reconsider. So instead of walking boring bits, I decided to go home to the Netherlands and spend two weeks with friends and family.

Just before Christmas, I returned to New Zealand. I will continue TA, but I’ll skip the rest of the North Island and continue with the South Island.

I woke up at 6 and snoozed till 6:30. But there are benefits of getting up early, like beating the heat, getting to take a long break, and reaching the next camp at a reasonable time. So at 7 am, I left the campsite ready for the upcoming day.

After Puhoi you can canoe the river, but only at outgoing tide. This wasn’t early in the morning and I wasn’t willing to wait till 4 pm, so I actually chose the road walk. As it is the old highway, it wasn’t too bad. And before I knew it, I was at the junction. If I stay true to the trail, I take the exit, walk a few kilometers including a small climb or I could follow the road circa 200m further and ‘save’ the kilometers (like I did last time).

Today I chose to stay true to the trail. Also with the knowledge that the road walk into Stillwater is dangerous and that I might hitch that, because as much as I love TA, I don’t want to risk my life for a stupid road section. So if I can safely walk the trail, I would.

I’m happy with my decision, it was gorgeous and really not a difficult trail as the day before yesterday. After that, I did the low tide route, which was also a stunning part and was a new part because last time the water was too high.

In Orewa, I ate 2 burgers ms and 2 portions of fries at MacDonald’s. This is the last time I did that because I didn’t feel full at all.

When I continued I could feel my hiker’s legs starting to come back. As I didn’t feel any complaints while I had already done 20km.

I was however right about the road section, the beginning was already uncomfortable but was mostly straight. Once I reached the curvy bit of the road, I tried to hitch but didn’t have the patience. So I did start and boy it was seriously dangerous, with blind corners And absolutely no shoulder. If two trucks would pass, you’ll be pushed off the road.

I was very fortunate that a lovely woman named Julie stopped on the road and offered me a ride. I was so relieved!!

At the campsite, the lady was very ‘pleased’ with me as I was apparently the first hiker in days to use the word ‘please’ when I asked her if I could camp. So, Mom and Dad, you can be proud of me!

I cooked dinner tonight, otherwise, the budget would go crazy, but we still did go for a drink and the boot club.

Currently, I‘m in my sleeping bag in the TV room which costs the same as a tent, but it saves you from packing a wet tent in the morning.

Now for tomorrow, although with low tide at 11 am, and only 45min to get to the estuary crossing, I can sleep in. But I just can’t stay awake. Night night.

I woke up early and, as laying down wouldn’t magically make my tent dry up in 30 min and also wouldn’t make my socks and shoes less muddy, there was no reason to delay the inevitable: packing a soaking wet tent and putting on wet muddy socks and shoes.

Today would be relatively chill with little less than 30km and a pub to look forward to.

I did have a false start because after 500m I realized I forgot my hiking poles. After that, I hiked for a bit and then thought I probably had a good reception to call a friend. I tried ringing a few, but as no one answered, I called my parents as they always picked up. Chatted for an hour and by then 1/3 of today was already covered.

At 10:30 I decided it was time for a break. I used someone’s driveway as there were no other options on the gravel road. Dry my tent, socks, and shoes and eat mashed potatoes as I ran out of chips (forgot I still had nuts as a snack). Other hikers passed me and just when I decided to pack up, the lady who lived in the house came home. Luckily she didn’t mind!

Today had some elevation as well, but way less and not muddy (only does hill bit, yes shoes got wet again). It was still sweaty and so I drank a lot of water.

I hit the road again and I heard a part was closed, so I followed the road. After an hour I decided to have another shoe-drying break and snooze md a little bit.

I got to my final destination in mid-afternoon. Plenty of time to chill, shower, and go down to the pub for a drink and a bite. Just after 7 o’clock, it was a mutual decision that it was time for bed! So an early night, but I think my body appreciates it.

Oh, a fun day was coming up. A notorious day from Pakiri to The Dome Cafe. In the TA WhatsApp groups the messages from hikers were a lot of people have done it, but almost everyone regretted it. However last time I started slightly further (yes it was incredibly tough) but did a 40km day. So the upcoming 26km didn’t scare me.

I woke up early and why not start? So I packed up and was the second person to leave camp.

From the 5 km road, you can see the hills surrounding you and you see the one you have to climb although you don’t see the peak. The trail was of course straight up with a bit of slippery mud. Lovely combination that was definitely not here in the dry summer of 2019/2020. But mud is fun and I’m not afraid of sweat. So I walked, sweat, and slipped and passed many hikers who started already 300m up the hill. Yeah 💪

At the peak, I and some of the other hikers took a break. Which meant we all cooled down very quickly. They started a little bit earlier, however this Dutchie passed them on the downhill! So I felt very confident. The final 500m to the road was unexpectedly difficult. But just before we hit the road a truly magical moment with a cooler filled with drinks for TA hikers. What a gift. Other hikers caught up with me and were equally ecstatic.

After this, we hit the road and what was a slight discomfort in my left ankle became painful with every step. Not good. But my legs were too muddy so I couldn’t tape my ankle to support it. The trial notes described a house on the road where you could refill your water. So I walked to the house and asked if I could clean my feet. Of course and after asking where I am from, he excitedly exclaimed that his wife is Dutch too.

Jasmijn was absolutely lovely and interesting to hear a Dutch perspective on living a long time in New Zealand. She also lived for a few years in the Netherlands with her family. We chatted for almost two hours with a cup of tea and snacks (which I mainly ate).

At some point, I had to continue. With tape around my ankle, it felt better. I wasn’t scared of Dome Forest. I remember it as relatively easy.

Yup

Not this time

Again so slippery. Almost every step causes your foot to slide. After 20km it becomes really exhausted, however, the surrounding is absolutely beautiful despite the slippery terrain and the lateness. The last hour became more challenging, but there was no point in getting my mind in a negative state. It is what it is and with limited water left, no other option but to finish the hike and see the large bunch of hikers.

I arrived second to last on the camp spot. Quiet the achievement with 16 hikers. It was almost getting dark and the incredible kind lady who lives nearby is the water supplier. Her kids were really excited by the large numbers and brought me flowers to put in my hair.

Unfortunately no shower and I ate my dinner in the dark. But no regrets about spending a long break with Jasmijn. Because people make the trail amazing. Children who bring you flowers, an unexpected treat of a soda on the trail, or a cup of tea. A tough but rewarding!

I got much better sleep this night and needed some more to compensate for yesterday. So I woke up at 7:30 rather than 5 am. I also dreamed very vividly that I was getting married and extremely in love with a man with a beard. Don’t think it was a vision for the future as I still prefer no facial hair. But I’ll keep you updated.

I could start late today because at 20km there would be an estuary crossing and high tide was at 1:30. So I needed to arrive a few hours after high tide. I could potentially continue and finish late. But hadn’t really decided yet.

After a third cup of tea, it was time to go. I gave Sue and Steve a hug as they truly were angels. As I‘m a stranger to the 2-year old I offered a high five. But not only did she give me a high five, I also got a really big hug! Which made my day and made me miss my own nieces and nephew even more.

I soon returned to pick up my hiking poles I left behind and then it was time to head off.

The road was fine and not too busy. I did feel my left ankle a bit. That is definitely something to watch and probably some tape tomorrow. But as it didn’t get worse, I accepted it.

The beach was lovely. Gorgeous views and I find watching the waves break very addicting. Always slightly different and I try to predict whether the wave run-up will come up to my feet. I get really good at it, but I got my shoes wet and a river crossing anyway.

It was high tide, so the beach was narrow and the sand soft. I took a long break and met up with hikers from two days ago: Ron, Carry, Hayden, Thomas, and more but as I hardly spoke with them, dropping their names wouldn’t be helpful. The previously mentioned hikers were planning to stay at a holiday park. I do prefer free campsites, however, they are lovely and if I want to belong to a group, I need to make compromises. So I was 70% sure I was going to camp with them.

It became 100% when dark clouds approached. Luckily we stayed dry during the hike and the river crossing was butt deep (not sure if you put it like that, but sounds better than crotch-deep 😅)

We arrived exactly at 5 at the campsite which meant we could pay and buy an ice cream. Mums!!

After pitching the tent and a cold shower, it started to rain. For a good hour, it rained, but with the holiday park facilities, we ate dinner in the dry communal area.

It was fun and happy with my decision to join them. Plus my tent stayed dry, although I did see some unexplained drops on my inner fly. So still not 100% sure it’s fully waterproof. Hopefully, tonight stays dry, although it won’t matter for the mud of tomorrow.

Today is a rest day!! Whoop. Very excited and very needed. So what do I do on a rest day: laundry, resupply, blog updating while eating and drinking in a cafe.

In the night I did little resting/ sleeping as it was sooooo windy! My tent survived it, which restored a bit of my faith in the tent. But I only fell asleep after I put earplugs in to draw out the sounds. I wish I had done that sooner than 4 am…

I got up at 7:30, as Sue already offered to do laundry yesterday, so that box was ticked. She also drove me to a Chocolate factory with a restaurant. Unfortunately, the restaurant didn’t have wifi and it was very busy so I couldn’t claim a table for hours.

I left, resupplied, and headed for the tavern. This had wifi, plenty of space, and a comfortable chair. I spend hours there and posting a bunch of days on my blog. I wasn’t fully up to date, but I knew Sue had the grandchildren over and I wanted to give her a hand.

Oh, the kids were adorable at the age of 2, 7 and 9. Now I do know their names, but I’ll use their age rather than names on a public website.

The 9-year-old was very chatty and we played a game of checkers I felt that he could deal with losing, I played to my abilities. It became clear to both of us that I would win. However, instead of flipping the board, the 9-year-old grabbed some chest pieces and added rules, like bridges, horse jumps, and so on. As I want to play games as long as possible, I enjoyed the creativity and continued to play with equal enthusiasm. At some point, we did stop and called it a draw. Win-win for both of us!

I was served another delicious dinner and regretted I couldn’t stay longer. It was the perfect rest day!

Despite the relatively late bedtime thanks to the other camping guests, I woke up early. I looked forward to not hiking. The sooner I start the earlier I’m finished.

After a quick introduction to other (awake) hikers. I hiked off. First the 1.5km back to the trail and then uphill. The weather today was grey with sometimes a bit of a drizzle.

I rang my parents until the reception was too bad. The forest part was a bit muddy, but nothing extreme. The newly created campsite at km 430 looked lovely and I had a sheltered snack break.

Soon I was at a tiny bit of a road walk before returning to the trail. It was a shock to me that the car didn’t move at all. So I quickly stepped further in the ditch. On a straight road with no cars in the other lane. This felt like extremely unsafe driving. I can understand that you don’t appreciate hikers on the road. But nearly running them over, won’t solve anything.

Bit shaken I was happy to leave the road and back on a trail. The part I loved the most was the coastal track. I had a great time, Despite the drizzle because I saw a group of dolphins. Absolutely lovely!

After that, it was a bit of beach. Of course, I was there around high tide with a decent swell. I watched the surfers for a while.

As I was getting hungry I continued into Mangawhai Heads for food and a drink. Nomnomnom

I texted the trail angels Sue and Steve that I was nearby and my expected arrival time. They asked if I wanted to join them for pizza that night. Of course!!!

The final part still had a trick up its sleeve. The boardwalk was closed due to (visible) storm damage. I walked back, but nearly all the stairs back to the road were private property. One didn’t say that but it became very clear. At the top of the stairs, I took my phone out to look at the map. At that moment the owner appeared (in his underwear) that it was alright to walk over his property back to the road. He apologized for his attire. I thought he was very kind because he just came out of the shower and instead of ignoring me, he came down as fast as he could to help me. I cannot emphasise enough how extremely kind Kiwis are.

The road was a short distance and soon I was at Steve and Sue! Such a lovely couple and she offered to do my laundry right away.

The pizza was delicious and it was a perfect homely evening. Exactly what I needed. The only rain on my parade was the wind. Not the best night spent in my tent.

I woke up a bit later than usual. Which was fine as I was in no rush. An easy road walk to the boat crossing and from there I could see where I wanted to sleep.

The other two hikers weren’t ready yet. So I sat off alone hoping I would get i boat hitch and otherwise I would call the water taxi. Unfortunately, no boats came to the boat ramp and after an hour Tim and Ron hadn’t come either. Strange but alright. I called the water taxi and. He would come in half an hour.

After 40 minutes still no boat and no hikers. But the water taxi drove actually passed Tim and Ron. He arrived and launched his boat for another short job. By then Tim and Ron caught up. Apparently, they went for breakfast in town.

We were brought across in a lovely but bumpy boat ride. On the other side, we would walk along the beach to Waipu. It was high tide and therefore we were forced to walk on the soft sand. This also meant that we couldn’t follow the beach the whole way but use the bridge in Ruakaka.

As I was around lunchtime in Ruakaka, I resupplied, bought a cider as a drink, and a to go hamburger and fries. I walked back to a public table and enjoyed a long lunch. I also contacted a trail angel in Mangawhai for tomorrow and also asked if I could stay an extra day. My first zero day. Once that was settled, I continued.

In the morning it took a while to find my pace and in the afternoon it became worse. I really didn’t want to hike. But I kinda had to because I just arranged a trail angel. And so I pushed to Waipo. I saw Ron and Tim there. Both were feeling fine and continued to Waipo cave for the campsite.

Last time I found a really good stealth camping spot. So that was my aim. Walking was still a mental struggle. It took a breath to decline an offered hitch because that would mean I couldn’t search for my stealth camping spot. Dumb decision. No stealthing spot and another 1,5km off trail for the campsite.

I arrived with the last bit of sun. Extremely tired from the mental challenge from today. It was really busy with other hikes whom I hadn’t met before. But I couldn’t muster the energy. So I cooked, and ate my food in my sleeping bag (I tend to cool down too much, so being in my sleeping bag prevents this). I was fully ready to go to sleep when at 10;30 pm a cabin decided to play music really loudly and to yell over the music to each other.

I WAS NOT HAVING IT

So I stormed over there. Angrily asked them to turn off the music and to be quiet! I didn’t wait for a response. Stormed to the bathroom and when I came back. It was indeed quiet.

And so I could finally go to bed.

I didn’t sleep well which is uncommon. I think the fact that I set an alarm was the cause. I don’t want to wake the others so I try to time my biological clock to wake me up right before the alarm. Didn’t work this time because I woke at midnight rather than 5 am. The rest of the night I drifted off and on between awake and dreaming.

When my alarm went I woke up. And quickly pack everything. Two decided to stay and the others were already packed. I’m afraid I packed rather loudly. So my sincere apology to Thomas and Till.

The estuary crossing was beautiful and still very doable 2 hours past low tide. I definitely recommend it, so don’t take the bypass.

After the estuary, there is the warm uphill to 300m. Then you drop down to the beach and walk to Bream Head.

The amount of road is limited and all parts of the day are stunning and very enjoyable. Even the steep climb to Bream’s head.

I was thinking of doing Bream head tomorrow, but when the other passed me, while I took a sunbathing break. I decided I do it.

It’s a tricky beginning and sadly I had to get down a different path to collect water. Should have taken a different route. The water was a bit weird but as it didn’t sag ‘no drinking water’, I took the risk (so far so good). Climbed back up to my backpack and continued.

So so so steep and so sweaty. But gorgeous views of what has passed and what is to come. I enjoyed the views with Tim and Ron. I continued a little ahead and saw Tim on my short break at the lion’s peak.

It was getting late and Neil (a lovely guy who let me camp last time) was 2.5km away but the free campsite was an additional 5km.

Thank the trail gods he was actually outside walking his dog. So when I grabbed my photos to put in the mailbox. I could hand them personally. So much better. And even better Tim, Ron, and I could camp AND got a beer!!! Neil and his wife are heroes!

After a lovely shower where I could even wash my hair. I ate a big delicious dinner and lay my head to rest. Now finishing today! And it was a great day!! Love you Te Araroa♥️

Drank morning tea with David as he wanted me to wake him up. I can do that. So at 6:30, I knocked on his van. Thinking I would only go to Ngunguru (25km) I even had a second cup.

A lovely woman gave me a lift back to the trail (1.2km but no shame in hitchhiking it). As I passed the holiday park I saw the others. They told me the only possible time to go across the estuary at Ngunguru was 3 o’clock. I already asked a trail angel if I could stay at her place, and I felt a bit guilty about canceling. She was really cool though and still invited me for tea or lunch.

The first 10km was beautiful, with first the longest footbridge of the Southern Hemisphere, then walking along the estuary, followed by a 4-wheel drive track that winds along the shore. Loved it.

At the end was a picnic area where I arranged the boat and dried my tent. I couldn’t stay too long. At 10-ish with 16km to go. Plus a resupply plus tea with the trail angel.

Unfortunately, the 16km was road as the trail was rerouted. It didn’t mention any reroute on the trail notes, but I remember going through a muddy forest and a big-ass Kauri tree. Which is probably the reason they closed it. To protect the Kauri.

On the road, I bumped into Martin. The barefoot man from Reatea forest. I caught up with him. But he quickened his pace as he was afraid it would be too slow for me. Honestly, he walked faster than my normal pace, but I didn’t mind it as it’s good pace practice. So the only mistake I made was to show Martin the plant that produces good walking poles. He grabbed two and then flew off. I managed the pace only barely but liked the challenge until I felt some pain in my left chin (spelling?) and asked him to slow down or continue without me. We would arrive with plenty of time to spare, so Martin decided to slow down.

After arriving in Ngunguru, we resupplied and visited the Trail Angel. A lovely woman with definitely a quirky side, but who hasn’t? She was extremely kind and gave us a delicious nutritious soup and some bread with butter. After about an hour we left to wait for the boat.

On our way, we bumped into the last hikers that would join us. With a group of 10, we crossed. James was the captain and also gave instructions on the next two tidal crossings. Apart from the window for the second tidal crossing, I knew already everything.

The crossing went well but with a nice slib-muddy trail before the road. This mud can be tackled barefoot (although my feet weren’t happy with that choice), but the biggest difference is the smell. It stinks. But so do I. So the perfect combination.

The 5km road section to another walking bridge was fine. Unfortunately, the kind couple that offered me camping space wasn’t home. I left a photo behind in their mailbox with a thank you note.

The backup campsite wasn’t far. We arrived at 6:30. Was a long day and thus time for bed!!