Refusing to go out in the middle of the night because of the rain, resulted in me waking up every hour. Should have known better so eventually I got up at 6:30 even though the boat appointment is at 8. Packing up went fast although my tent was soaked. Decided it would be best on the outside. Walking to the Fjällstuga I realised I haven’t visited the river. So I went down and found a swollen river and a tent right on the edge. Wouldn’t have been my choice. Bit worried I went into the Fjällstuga an employee was already busy, so I asked her what her experience with a flooded river was. She agreed it was a stupid choice but there is no immediate danger (yet). Inside I did get my last bits and pieces and weighed my pack on their scale. Could be lighter but could also be a lot worse.

Together with Marit and Markus e walked towards the boat. Marit wasn’t a fan of my 8 o’clock reservation so she decided this would be the only time. The boat ride was super enjoyable with the woman(Helena) telling us a few things about the Delta. Interestingly enough was the merge of the two rivers where it became very clear that it rained much more in the Sälek region because the water was much browner. Even better we saw a rainbow indicating also that there was some sunlight. Once we got off the boat. Helena warned us about a very slippery chatty, but luckily it all went okay. Two steps on the trail however showed that my efforts to dry, my shoes and clean my socks were absolutely pointless. The trail was very muddy, very flooded, and very wet. And during the first few hours, the rain came down as well. I had some near falls because it was so slippery. The worst thing that happened, though, was me sliding away while stepping on a rock with my right foot, because of the slide I hit the rock with my left foot’s toes. Needed a few curse words to recover.

I decided to have lunch in the emergency shelter and I couldn’t get there quick enough, as it was actually quite dry and then suddenly Moore came. I expected to be alone in the emergency shelter, as I was a little bit quicker than Marit and Markus, but there were already people there. Which was unfortunate because it was too crowded to dry my tent out, but luckily I could snack on some chips and as soon as I was happily snacking away, Marit entered. I expected Markus as well, but apparently they walked separately. She was also surprised to see the other people sitting in the hut. The other people were packing up to leave, so we would have the shelter to ourselves. Before they could leave, Markus entered. He had made a nasty fall and hurt his ribcage, so he wasn’t in the best of mood, but luckily the coffee and food helps. After the other people left I tried to dry my tent. But it was no use.

After an hour break, I became restless. So, despite the rain, I decided to continue. Markus and Marit thought I was very brave, but I had the idea that the rain was stuck in this valley and so by continuing, I would leave the rain behind. I think I did make the right decision, I had some rain when I left, but not too long after it became dry. On the plateau the view was amazing and I was enjoying myself so much.

Put the best head still to come so on the way up to the emergency shelter, I saw a lot of droppings by reindeer, but I didn’t see any reindeer. But on the plateau suddenly they were there. There was nothing that could happen that would destroy my day. It was so amazing to see them, and I think they’re even the wild reindeer because it was only a small group of like eight. The girl that had left the shelter was walking five minutes ahead of me so she scared the reindeer a little bit away but then they were up on the mountain behind a little ridge and I could constantly see the antlers moving. It was the best.

In the distance, I could see new rain clouds coming, so I put on again my rain gear, but it was only a very short shower. The trailer is Nice and easy-going, so I decided to go a little bit further than I anticipated to go. I found a camp spot near a lake. Two others just had lunch there. Which is quite late as it was 5:15.

We had a small chat, but then I decided to look for the best spot to put my Tent. Was quite content with myself after two tries. I let the still wet Tent dry. I took a river bath and noticed that no one else was likely to come. So all by myself (besides the blood sucking insects). Did my evening routine and now time for bed.

It starts with a sad story. Because on the day I wrote the full summary which was quite a long one. However when I wanted to select copy at post it. I selected paste. And thus my whole story was gone.

So here is take two:

The thunder and most of the rain missed us. So it turned out to be a fine night. We got up and packed everything as usual. However, today would be Donald’s last day. Very sad to lose my compagnon, but glad that we made it in time to Kvikkjokk. Or at least we still had to walk 20+ km, but we could do that. First 10km to the last hut and then 14km to Kvikkjokk. The route would be through the forest for nearly all. Which means no grand views and a lot of roots and rocks to step over.

According to an American family, we were ‘close to the next hut’. Surely not because it took another hour and a half and to me that is not close. We got there in the end. Had a break and on we went. The Kungsleden book told us the trail would be similar, with the most rocks along the lake.

We arrived at the lake and so did the rain. Yep, actual rain that required full gear and put a break out of our thoughts. Although it was getting close to lunch. The wet rocks proved to be extra challenging. But nothing we cannot do (in terms of hiking). After a very intensive 2km I needed a break! Weathergods provided a dry period and underneath the trees, it wasn’t so bad. More mashed potatoes as lunch. Nomnomnom.

Only 10 km left to the finish/resupply town. The rain started again after lunch. But that’s alright. We would be dry soon. I was a little bit in doubt if I wanted to pay for a bed or camp for free. I would decide in the moment. Oeh so spontaneous of me.

After a last break, we got to Kvikkjokk. Wanted to take a finishing photo together, but of course forgot.

At the Fjällstuga we discovered that there were only beds available for men. So Donald got a bed, making sure that everything was dry and I saved money by staying in my tent. Plus now I have a full 2 person tent to myself. What a castle! And because Donald stayed in de Stuga he could put my wet stuff in the dry room (did laundry underneath the shower) and charge my power bank through the night.

We were oblivious to the fact that we should have reserved dinner. By the time we figured it out, there was no more space. Instead, we got fresh lasagna out of the shop that they re-heated for us. Still really good! Could be maybe a bit more. The lasagna was of course paired with a glass of milk!

The beer that I won by betting with Donald that the shops in the Stuga would sell noodles came after dinner! Together with some card games, it resulted in a perfect last night.

Didn’t sleep too well even though I had the whole tent to myself. I think it has to do with either or both of these two things

1. strong coffee at 4:30 pm

2. No bandanna to cover my eyes from the light

So I got up early and it was dry. Knowing it would rain much later on today. I had a walk around town. There isn’t that much to see, so I returned soon after. This would be my only walk of today because I had a rest day.

Donald got up at the time I returned from my walk to enjoy his breakfast. I chose the best table with the understanding that that would be my spot for the whole day. Which was true. I resupplied early so I could take it off my to-do list. Not the best choice because they restocked the shop in the afternoon. I also created postcards for the little ones (nieces and nephew). After that, it was almost time for Don’s bus. I was planning to walk with him, but considering the rain, I didn’t. Said goodbye to a great hiking partner. Luckily I have a day to get used to this fact. Plus it’s not the first time.

Honestly, the rest of the day was really relaxing. Chatting with the Dutchies, updating my blog, and drinking tea/coffee (not too much coffee). I also saw the German woman again with the tied together backpack. She had a good time and made it out safely!

Even though I didn’t do much. The day flew past and soon it was time for dinner. I joined at a random table with three lovely gentlemen. All different nationalities, so I couldn’t practice my Swedish. The food (and one glad of wine) were delicious, or ‘mums’ as a You say in Swedish. I finished with a very dense chocolate cake.

Some final phone time and again ready for bed

I also never wrote for day 6. So here is the best I can do:

We got up with the new agreement: if you wake up between 6 and 7 you can start packing your stuff. This will wake the other person. But we both agreed that at that time you’ve had enough sleep. So this morning I started packing.

The hike was beautiful with amazing views and it’s definitely my favourite part so far. Also, the terrain was easier and we could actually look around rather than looking to the ground. Only the downhill to the lake was steep and thus for me slow.

Once at the boat crossing, the hut warden was very concerned, because there was a strong wind. Also, two French people had arrived just before us, and they paid to get the motorised boat across. The hut warden urged us to do the same. Not really knowing we agree to it. Looking back on it I think we could’ve rowed it but oh well.

We asked the guy from the boat about the timetable of the bus. Because between stages 1 and 2, there is a 30km road section and a boat. He said 11 and 13:30, but I thought there was also one at 4. With that in mind, we rushed to make it. Which was also a good decision as rain clouds were chasing us. I do like those challenges and only on the last descent to Teusajaure we had rain. Actually rain this time.

Once down, we entered the hut. There the hut warden said there would be no bus at four. In my mind already took into account that the bus might not be going. So I accepted it quickly and just started to eat my food. Donald was more committed to the 4 o’clock bus, so he needed a little bit of time to accept the situation. According to the hut warden, there would be a ferry going across at 6 pm. So with a hitch we could still get across to the start of section 2. Plus I heard that the breakfast buffet at Saltoluokta Stuga is really good.

I was still eating (the hut warden made too much pasta and meatballs so he gave it to us!! ) when a couple from Finland entered to look around. They would be driving back and they were happy to take us! What luck!! We would still be on time for the ferry.

Arriving at the jetty at 5:30. It was deserted. Bit odd. Looking at the ferry timetable, it only connects to the buses. So the next one was tomorrow at 11. Trying to call the water taxi didn’t result in any earlier crossing. So yeah. Nothing else to do than pitch the tent and chill.

There weren’t many camping spots. We found a decent one and started our typical evening routine.

Was a bit of an emotional rollercoaster that day. But sometimes you just need to deal with disappointments. It is what it is.

So I never wrote on day 5 or in the days after a summary of the day. Now that I’m finished I have the time to fill in the missing days. This is also the case for day 6 and some days at the end.

Yesterday we hiked to the summit of Kebnekaise and it cost me a lot of afford. But with 12 hours of sleep (honestly, it was that long) my body recovered and I had no physical problems. Donald said he felt some exhaustion in his body. That makes sense. We have hiked every plus yesterday. But he/we wanted to continue and go back to the Kungsleden route.

In the morning we met many people that we saw in the hut or the Sauna. These were the people that hiked from Abisko to Nikkaluokta

There was a shortcut possible, that would require a little bit more elevation gain. But would pass a lake and on the map it already looked promising. Donald had to convince me a little bit because I absolutely did NOT want a path like yesterday. So maybe physically recovered, but mentally not ready for more challenges. But it was really not that much more elevation than the other route, plus fewer kilometres to walk.

It was indeed stunning and we lunched up there. Me in my full mosquito protection outfit. Donald is just in his regular outfit.

The afternoon was fine. We noticed some rain clouds behind us. So we assumed it was now our time to get wet. But we only had a little bit of rain. I also so another hiker very busy with his tent guidelines. As it was an MSR I thought I knew his concern. So I gave the cryptic instruction ‘You can place your hiking pole underneath the’. Not even a complete sentence. Donald had no clue, but apparently, I did understand his concern because he did actually as I meant. Which was placing your hiking pole underneath your tent pole that widens your tent entrance. Because it bends scary far if the wind pushes it. The hiking poles support the tent pole on the edges, so it can’t bend.

We continued and found a beautiful camp spot. Close to the hut, but not close enough so you have to pay. Did the typical evening routine (bath and ate) and even wandered to the hut for an evening stroll.

Was again a great day.

We woke up by the alarm. Unusual but necessary as we needed to be on time at the boat dock at 7:30. With a short hike and a long morning routine (for this I blame the breakfast of Donald) so the alarm was set at 6:15.

The boat was the only option, the rowing boats were taken out. Not sure if that is forever. Bit sure but the private boat operator took its chance and doubled the price compared to 2021(?) when my information book was published. Let’s call it inflation. The fifteen-minute boat ride was enjoyable and did save us time. The guy steering the boat definitely enjoyed speeding passed the shallow bits and so did I.

On the other side, we said goodbye to the other hikers whom were only doing the 8 km to the next hut. Too bad because they encouraged my Swedish.

The walk after the boat was in a forest, so no spectacular views but still enjoyable. Noticeable were the many piles of wooden planks that haven’t been put together. It gave something odd to the scenery.

A short steep ascent to the plateau and the scenic views were back! Further on the plateau we could take the detour to Sjieffre. Decided not to do it as my ankle still hurt and the tight schedule Donald is on. We did see the peak and I wasn’t sorry to miss it.

Downhill to the hut was tough. Very rocky and my ankle made me even slower than usual. Don went ahead to inform about the next 3km lake crossing.

We decided to row and there were many boats so we didn’t have to row 3x ( the case if you take the last boat). Just when we wanted to leave a group of 9 came. There were still two boats left, but they asked if we could take their backpacks. I replied that I didn’t think that would be kind, to give us additional weight of their stuff but no additional person to help us row. They agreed and we took a person and a backpack.

Donald started with rowing and it became clear that Orka (student rowing association ) was a long time ago. Eventually, it went better. I took over and as my childhood consisted of many boat rowings, it felt easy. The load of the boat wasn’t perfect, so despite my experience, I struggled to keep a perfectly straight line, but we made good progress. The person who joined gave it a try as well but it wasn’t a success. Donald wanted to give it a second chance and he finished the rest. A nice intermezzo from the hiking.

Once on the other side, we had lunch inside a shelter. Even though the weather was nice, being less attacked by bloodsuckers insects was worth sitting inside for.

After lunch, we continued with the last 10 to 15km. The first section was beautiful through the forest. Really enjoyed it. Had some music in, and we were both hiking at our own pace. It felt complete.

It took about two hours to complete the forest and we climbed high enough to be above the tree line. We could hardly see the lake we crossed, but new and stunning valleys were visible. Slowly the effects of the alarm and early rise started to kick in and we both became really tired.

Last push of 2km but once there, thunderclouds came around us. We had a short discussion about what would be wise. Putting the tent up before the rain came or continuing to camp in the tree line. We choose option A and s luck would have it, the thundercloud surpassed us. Meaning we could do the evening routine in peace. Tired from the day, we were in the tent by 8, and 20 min later the rain did start.

The zzzzz-sound of the mosquitoes could be heard all night and one even got in the tent after my standard midnight pee. In the morning the mosquito had a red behind and the odds are not in my favor. However, there are so many that I don’t really notice. Even Donald is starting to lose track of the number of bites.

As we were still waiting for the ferry, which will depart at 10:40, we wandered back to the Picknick bench, eat a small breakfast, and played some cards. And I updated my website with one day.

About 30 minutes before departing a young lady from German came and started to ask many questions, while she was fasting her sleeping back to a day pack. Please know that the sleeping bag was in a biodegradable trash bag. Surprising choice, because I don’t think they hold up well during rain. It didn’t take long for her to admit that this would be her first ever multiple-day hike and that she was on a tight budget. Also funny was that she was planning on eating cornflakes for four days!! Damn.

Other people started to show up for the ferry and the contrast between Ine (German explorer) and other Kungsleden hikers was so significant. Where there are so so so many 85L backpacks filled to the brim and still the tent is still attached on the outside, while she had a daypack with a sleeping pad and sleeping bag attached to the outside. Sure she is underprepared. But I’m not going to crush her spirit. I think it’s brave to undertake something and yes a bigger budget or more preparation would be helpful and make the experience more enjoyable. She will succeed. Maybe not on what she brought with her but knowing that there are plenty of huts and even emergency shelters, plus the huts sell food, and there are plenty of people hiking both ways, I’m sure she will be fine. However, I do recommend preparing better!

The ferry came and it was a fast crossing. Finally on the other side. We did some small resupply at the very basic shop. There was more merchandise than food. Then it was time for an enjoyable fika, with free re-fill. Lucky us!!! And as the power bank was slowly charging we decided to have lunch as well.

That was a good decision. It was a delicious soup buffet and we both ate too much. Everything tasted so good and again we could eat as much as we wanted. Dutch as we are, that means multiple rounds. It even delayed our departure because we couldn’t bare the thought of strapping our backpacks over our full tummies.

Just after 2 o’clock we finally left to hike to the first hut. A steady 20km which we now call an easy short day. How quickly you become stronger and increase your stamina.

The hike itself was beautiful and uneventful. Until the last few kilometers when the mosquitoes came in large numbers. Finding a spot to pee without being bitten on newly exposed skin became a challenge. I did succeed on that part, but trying to catch up with Donald, I rolled my ankle. Bad enough to let myself fall to prevent worse. The landing was soft however my ankle did hurt. Nothing was broken and nothing was completely torn, I continued walking to keep it warm. Wasn’t too bad, but I could definitely feel my shoe getting tighter which meant a swelling.

We reached the hut 40 minutes after previous event. Set up the tent in mosquito land. We tried to make a fire because we like it and it helps against the mosquitoes, but the wood was wet. Wasn’t a very successful fire. We gave up and walked down to the hut for drinking water and a swim (in a not-so-extremely-cold lake). We ended the day with the routine cup of tea, which I’m currently regretting because once I finish this story I need to leave the safety of the tent and pee, again 😦

The big day is here. As we knew we had to first walk 10 km to the start, we had set the alarm at 3. However, I woke up at 2:30 for my standard midnight pee and it was raining. So when the alarm went off at 3 I suggested snoozing for an extra 30 minutes. Still sleepy Donald wasn’t difficult to convince.

We tried to be as quiet and quick as possible and less than a hour later we were on our way. Beautiful morning? With the first sunrays peaking over the mountains. The trail was easier than the end of the last day. So within 3 hours, we were at the location of the trail to Kebnekaise. Although we walked passed it the first time. We had a snack break knowing that we would need all the calories we could get.

The first bit of the new path was fine but significantly smaller and less walked compared to the Kungsleden trail. However, as soon as we reached the valley (which was a river valley rather than a glacier valley) the trail changed to be over many rockfalls (I’ll check The Earth Science book if this is the correct term). If I thought the Kungsleden trail was slow, this was even worse! So much focus on not misstepping and rolling my ankles or worse. After an hour or two we reached another valley with beautiful camping spots along a lake. Really quiet with nearly no hikers coming up this way. The only daunting thing was that the camp soot had stone walls to protect the tents from strong winds.

The map suggested that we wouldn’t have many water sources, so we filled up and tried to look for the trail. Couldn’t really find one so we just scrabbled over the rocks based on my offline map and GPS location. Eventually, we did find stone markers again which did ease my mind. The trail continued to be jumping from boulder to boulder and my feet were definitely getting tired from constantly weird pressure points and we weren’t even halfway. I knew it would be tough but it was even tougher than expected.

At lunch, we finally saw the saddle from which Kebnekaise can be reached. However, to get there, there was a really steep and sketchy part. Definitely needed some mental strength to not go into panic mode because it felt that if one large boulder would be dislodged, everything will come down. Was to sure what that would mean for me. But thinking like that would not be helpful and it’s the trail. So people did find it safe enough to lead the trail over it.

We did make it and all the boulders stayed in place. When I say made it, I mean reaching the saddle. Had lunch there and it was ‘only’ 1.5km to the top. As we would come back to this spot we left stuff behind. Thinking it would be easy. However, within 1.5 km, you need to climb 500m. Not fully aware of that we started the climb. Assuming that we would reach it fast. Don was quicker so he went ahead. But it was a never-ending climb. Like so steep and so long. Every time I thought I would be at the end, a new steep section would appear. I think I went so slow that strava didn’t track my progress but assumed I was standing still.

Eventually an hour later I saw Donald. But still not there. And yes looking back over your shoulder the views were gorgeous, but going uphill for so long after already a tiring morning and the knowledge of what we needed to descend and the ‘small’ hill that you needed to hup over, made me want to stop. But what a waste of energy, coming all this way to not finish what I started. Thus onwards I pushed. Completely focussing on short milestones to keep me motivated. An hour later than expected we did reach the summit!! Rain clouds nearby made us hurry. Short hurrah and photos and a quick break, because descending while it was raining was my worst fear.

The downhill was faster not perse easier. Getting more and more tired. At the level of the ‘small hill’ Don said ‘Oh all that we go down no, we need to climb and go down again’. Wasn’t the visualization I needed. But as tired as I was, I know I can do it. Hiking many hikes before I know how much I can do. That realization is such a huge help.

Getting back at the saddle we picked up the stuff we left behind and continued. Putting our rain jackets on because we could feel raindrops. Luckily it didn’t rain too much. Pfffh uphill was s bad as it looked. The second downhill even worse. At some point, I did start to wonder if it was getting too much. But those thoughts don’t help. They just consume energy. I was also getting frustrated with Donald for no reason. I told him to hike his own pace because he was waiting for me made me feel rushed. But then I would be annoyed that he continued so far that I couldn’t see him. Purely my mind is exhausted and going negative. So I told myself time after time, I said it was okay so don’t blame him. Focus on yourself, you can do it, negative thoughts won’t help, step by step you’ll make it. You always have.

And then magic!! Stairs appeared. So easy, so nice. What a treat. The rain also stopped for half an hour already.

Unfortunately not the whole way down was stairs and soon it was as thought as it had been. The thing making it worse was there was a 30m drop to a fast-flowing river. So tripping would come with severe consequences. I did nearly fall 2 times. So I stopped for an extra break. There was no rush, no daylight fading and thus no reason to put myself at risk. After 15 min break, I did better but it was so so so difficult.

Eventually, we made it. As the rain came near, we rushed on a shortcut. I had nothing left so when we found a spot decent enough and I felt raindrops, I had no patience left. So in a not-so-fine moment, I kind of stated/commanded that we camped right here. Donald also very tired, luckily accepted this unkind behavior and didn’t make a big deal out of it. The tent was pitched and indeed the rain came. While it was raining I jumped into the river for a quick wash. Wet is wet. Than made dinner. If I waited for 30min it would have been dry. But at 7:30 I was knocked out and fell directly into sleep.

We woke up late (passed 8) and packed the tent quickly while I was still being attacked by mosquitoes. That will probably be a returning topic. Donald decided to have breakfast higher up which reduced the number of mosquitoes.

After the late start, the trail was easy going and we passed the Tjäktja Fjällstuga. Decided not to leave the trail to visit the hut because it was too earlier for a break. We continued the gentle climb further to Tjäktja Pass (1150m) where there was even the tiniest snow patch left. Just before the last 25m climb, we saw the Korean couple we met on the train. So we had a brief conversation and we both felt amazement that they were ahead of us. We didn’t see them after we left before them from Abisko. But never again will I underestimate a 60-year-old Korean who looks no older than 40 and who completed 103 marathons.

On top of the pass, there was a cosy emergency shelter. We had a short break and the Korean passed us again. The downhill was much steeper than we climbed previously and the view into the new valley was amazing.

As we pre-booked a bed at the Sälka Fjällstuga it was only a short distance. However, the trail became rocky and slow going. It might actually be for the better because we already arrived early at 3:30 pm and you can check in from 4 pm. Once we did rain clouds could be seen at the end of the valley. The weather forecast didn’t predict this, but it’s generally known that the weather forecast in this region isn’t a 100% reliable. So we were about to go inside the hut when we again saw the Koreans. They would continue and probably stay ahead of us.

Inside was nice with a equipped kitchen and beds. So we had tea and read some books. Donald was more in a social mood than I was so whilst I was reading my book in bed, he was chatting with a France and two German women. At 6 o clock, it was woman’s hour for the Bastu (Sauna). I went down to the Bastu a little apprehensive, but it was THE best!! So nice and hot and just happy chatting between women. And after a while, it was time for the ice-cold river bath. So good but still so cold. I repeated the process three times and every time I could stay longer in the river. In the end, I could scratch off dirt and with a final shower, I was clean.

After the women, it was the man’s turn and with s small reassurance from me, Donald was on his way and returned after the full hour had passed.

He also got more information about the weather because we wanted to climb Kebnekaise but not with rain or low-hanging clouds (meaning we would have a view). But the forecast had changed, currently a lot of rain and tomorrow it would be dry and sunny. The detour to Kebnekaise was still 10km from this hut, plus 17km and 1700m of elevation for the actual summit. Tomorrow was promising to be a BIG day.

Still early now so we played and lost multiple rounds of Uno with the 2 German ladies and 1 Italian man. The rules differ a bit from the ones I know. Probably the reason why I lost ;).

After the last cup of tea, it was time to go to bed. An actual bed 🙂

Yesterday Don and I decided to start walking separately because he wanted breakfast and I do that whilst hiking. So I started just before 8, which is in my opinion not extremely early as there is 24h daylight. And in the distance I could see other hikers ahead of me.

Getting of our camping-spot I realised that still more people had come and also slightly further up there were even more tents. So it would be a busy day on trail.

The day started with a small climb which was enjoyable. The rest that I walked by myself was mainly rocky footpath. So the pace wasn’t the 5km/h which I’m accustomed to, but more 3,5 km/h. The only people ahead if me walked a similar pace and very slowly I got closure. Although I’m sure they didn’t know they had a target on there back. When they took a break I overtook them and now I was leader of the peleton. Because looking back I saw a stream of people and Donald catching up with me. I didn’t want to let that happen do I switched on turbo mode. This did give me some additional time but eventually we were reunited.

The weather was cloudy and the views nice, but to be honest not as spectacular as I expected. Once we saw the lake the view became more pleasing. At the end of the lake was the first hut of the day and we hoped to eat our lunch there. The circa 5km along the lake felt endless, but eventually we got to the hut in time for lunch.

For lunch a Dutch couple joined us and especially the woman was into hiking and brought along her new boyfriend (there age mid-forties?). Nice chat but they seemed to have a different understanding of the facilities the huts would provide. For instance that they would serve coffee and accept your trash. While I was surprised nearly every hut had a shop which was supplied once a year by helicopter to reduce the cost. The explanation made them accept the situation more.

They continued as we finished. So after lunch it was just us again and the many people who came from the opposite direction. The afternoon was also a slow trail and I had a HUGE after dinner dip with eyelids falling. We ended up very close to the next hut before finding a camp spot. Nicely hidden away from the trail, close to the large valley floor river and into the home of 100.000 mosquito, which I realised too late preferred me over Donald. So during the 5 minutes it took to set up the tent , I already had 30 bites. Literally.

Bathing time was no pleasure either. The water temperature near zero, but once out of the water it was a war for my blood.

Putting on rain gear which made eating dinner bearable, but I wasn’t as happy as normal

In the tent I drank my night time tea and then went to sleep.